Boat Rigging

• Use 316 stainless (anything else rusts too fast)



• Garhauer Blocks - I did have a problem with old style block sleeve clearance, but Garhauer fixed them under warrantee. The new style blocks, which I used for replacement jib track and snatch blocks (as turning blocks for the staysail and spinnaker), are awesome!!



• Rig dual permanent preventer to tame the main. It’s a trade off on where the cleat should be - on the lower block or permanently mounted in the cockpit; it depends on where your reefing lines/halyard run. Mine are at the mast so I release the main sheet prior to going forward and can control boom position etc while reefing with the block mounted cleats.



• Running Back Stay setup – We have a running back stay that we use all the time even if the staysail is not up. It keeps the mast from pumping in rough conditions and adds an extra level of security. The running backs are attached to standard sheets in addition to a control line, then runs near the aft lower to the rail and back to a cleat in the cockpit. The running back sheets go to a block attached to a strong stainless fitting behind the main winches (with the block becket attached to a bungee to keep it from flopping around) and then to the lazy sheet winch. The control lines are used to pull the lazy running back forward and out of the way of the boom when it is not being used. Choose the control lines forward block position carefully, because you don’t want the running back banging on the mast or spreaders but you need it far enough forward to be out the way of the boom and mainsail. I also tie them to the aft shrouds while at anchor. This works much better than the multiple block purchase system; I’d hate to have to control those swinging blocks while beating off a lee shore in a gale (which is when you really need the running backs).



• 1" tubular webbing for line chafe & block backup. I take a couple wraps around the boom and through the main sheet blocks in case the mounting bracket fails. I also use it as a chafe thimble in most applications where the line is tied permanently.  If the webbing chafes you’ll notice and can replace it prior to losing you line.
  
• Topping lift tightener – My topping lift enters the mast about two feet above the deck. I tied a small piece of 1/8" line around the topping lift with a rolling hitch and then formed a loop. I then attach it to a piece of bungee cord which runs through a small block on deck. Both ends are stainless bungee clips that I can easy remove when the sail is down (and store the bungee out of the sun) but can tighten easily after the sail is raised. I put the other end around a stainless tube that protects the dorade vents to give it enough tension to relieve the slack and keep it from banging around the luff of the sail. You might be able to rig it permanently but I think you’d have to replace the bungee more frequently.



• Use cut hose as chafe protection for rail mounting/tie downs if you have aluminum toe rails. Without it any movement will chafe right through.
  


• Climbing strops with UV protection ( 1” tubular webbing) for block mounting. Climbing strops are usually rated in KN (kilaNewtons) about 225 lbs. I use 27 KN strops which are a little stronger than 6000 lbs, and cover them with webbing cut to match the application.



• Suncor Quick Clips – pretty strong and have many use applications



• Lose footed main has works great. Allows more flexibility during sail adjustment, and allows webbing backing straps to be added to all boom fittings.
  
  
• Cockpit/Winch Line straps – make your own ties around life lines, cleats, rails, or winch bases. They keep lines organized and in place in rough conditions.



• Mast head reflective tape - would be helpful for reflecting spotlight in emergency situation but also helps find your boat in a crowded anchorage, especially when you forgot where you anchored.



• Antenna Quick Disconnect at mast base (while cruising lightening prone areas)



• Going Up the mast – spinnaker halyard to windlass to bosons chair with safety strap tied to a Gibbs Ascender clip rigged on to a spare halyard tightened to the base of the mast. Block and tackle system works well.

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