Boat Computer

When you look at the various functions that a computer can perform on a boat you have to ask if one computer can do it all. Yes, surely it can, but both primary usage profiles may suffer.  For navigation and communication, you want a low power computer (some cruisers leave it on all the time) and you want to keep it isolated from the internet. For photo/video editing and web page development you want a higher performance computer with more memory, disk space, and one that you can easily hook up to the internet to share your work. If you only have one computer you have no backup in the event of total failure. You might have the data backed up but you have no way of accessing it. You lose access to your communication, navigation, and all your photos, video and music all at once. We'll describe two computers; one we use for Navigation and one for Photo/Video.

• Small Form Factor (SFF) or Car Computers
  You can easily build a SFF computer into a protected environment on the boat, including shock mounting and additional air flow for cooling. If you go this route remember that you'll need an external monitor. Most monitors do not have the same power savings that a standard laptop does. I built a SFF with a custom laptop size screen but end up using the laptop more often because it draws less power (even though the SFF is lower performance). The laptop has the added protection of being able to stick it in the oven during a lightening storm. If you go the built in route, make sure you have a way of disconnecting both power and ground leads.
  
  I bought a 12 volt power supply for my shuttle SV-25, and made my own SFF computer but added lots of extra cooling in and around the case. I used an on board fan cable (ground, five and twelve volts), connected to a double pole double throw switch. If needed I can run the fan off 12 volts or 5 volts, which controls an extra fan in the computer and a fan that draws the air from the back out into the cabin.


12 volt car computers look like a viable alternative to laptops or SFF Computers. Look into increasing cooling and air flow because most are designed to run in an air conditioned car. Unless you are doing heavy video editing I would go with the slowest (therefore coolest) processor, and look for good power management software (like laptops have). I’m still not sure about the fanless versions because on one hand it reduces salt air circulation, but on the other hand extra cooling can be necessary in the tropics. Make sure you get some Serial ports (RS-232) and you have one for each item that uses it (sat phone, GPS, SSB, Modem, AIS).


• Mini Virtually Indestructible keyboard is a great waterproof keyboard even if you just use it with your laptop.



• Trackball roller mouse is great for small or crowded chart tables



• Flat panel LCD Monitor with Video Input – For both the computer and DVD player. Try and get an externally powered 12 volt supply without a direct AC input. Computer monitors and TVs have different refresh rates so you need a special monitor to support both. I use a 12 volt voltage regulator for the LCD, to keep the voltage at exactly the expected 12 volts, while the batteries go up and down through their charging phases. A car ready LCD monitor would do the same; you want a remote, a 12 volt input, and both computer and video inputs.
After five hours of searching I finally found the ultimate one, conformal coated for marine use, 9-18 volt input and all the goodies described above. They also make a 15" version if you can find it.


• Home made TV swivel for flat panel
- We installed our Monitor/TV at our nav station but it quickly rotates to face the salon if we want to watch a movie (see above photo).


• Laptops - I have a couple of refurbished IBM Thinkpad T22s which cost less than $300. They have a serial port which I need for the GPS and Sat Phone. They are well built, use very little power, and I have a 12 volt adapter for them. The hard drive and other components are very module and easily accessible for replacement. Thinkpad's were originally designed for the business environment where you can't afford any down time. Refurbished models are the cheaper bet and most are returned at the end of a business lease and have been well taken care of. Don't pass up the good new computer deals when the prices drop, but make sure you focus on quality instead of price. I'm amazed at the gear you can get now for under $1200.
   
  • See our Laptop Recommendations.

We store our laptops in Pelican cases, the 1490 has enough space for two computers and accessories.

We don't recommend using the DVD player in the laptop as a long term DVD player solution. Sometimes, especially in the tropics, they get too hot and cause other components to fail. You're also using your critical computer to perform a simple function that other products are better designed to handle. A portable DVD player is much cheaper to replace, uses less power, and can be moved into the cool cockpit air where you might be hesitant to bring a laptop.

Use a cooling pad; either a Targus Cool Pad, or a fan operated pad – Never keep the laptop in an enclosed space while running (with external keyboard and mouse) or place it on a pillow.

Get a laptop 12 volt power supply for the laptop if possible. If not available, KT uses a 175 watt cigarette inverter which seems to work fine for her Pentium IV power hog!!

• Conformal Coating for electronics (keeps corrosion away) - It comes in a spray can.  To use, cover all the connectors and open pins with tape, then spray on it the main circuit boards. This will most likely void any warrantee, because you took it apart.



• Serial Ports - If your computer doesn't have a serial port (most new ones don't), you'll need a good Serial-USB adapter, and if you have more than one device that uses serial ports (AIS, Pactor, GPS), then a four port Serial-USB hub is the best bet. At least get the two port because you'll end up adding something later. I know a lot of people who have had problems with CHEAP Serial to USB adapters. Keep the components plugged into the same Hub ports; some users have to plug the exact same plug into the same USB port, and in the same order, to get things to function correctly.



• USB Flash Drives - Make sure you have at least a couple USB flash drives so that you can pre-write email messages and internet to-do lists while still on the boat. Then use it in the cafe to save any web pages for future reference. In most places you won't find wireless and internet is slow and at least $5 an hour, so it helps to get in and out. The USB drive is the only way to get data to/from the internet and your boat.
   
  • Learn to save data offline
    
    
• Hard disk backup
  PLEASE DON'T SKIP THIS STEP. I know people who have lost everything; communication, navigation, and years of photos and journals! For regular backups we use small USB hard drives that power straight from the USB port. We use disk cloning software and folder synchronization software to keep the two identical. If I ever lose my primary laptop hard drive I know I can switch to the backup and be ready to go in two minutes (seriously we've done it!)



• Learn to backup your hard drive
   
• Printer. It is nice to have a small portable printer available to print out crew lists, boat documents, chart backups, and the occasional photo album for a village (just make sure you do it on the last day). If you only use it occasionally be aware that print cartridges will dry out over time, so keep them vacuum sealed or have spares if the cartridges are affordable. Ours are $50 out here and I wish we had brought a bunch, refilling them ourselves has reduced the print quality significantly. The Canon has an optional 12 volt adapter if you use it a lot or you really want portability (like setting up a village based photo shop), but the AC cord should work fine. Don't forget extra cartridges, both Black for documents and charts, and Color for photos or (fancy) charts. We recommend a small photo specific printer for hand-out photos (because there is no print cartridge to dry out).
   
• Scanner. I have always thought a scanner would be a nice addition, but could never justify the space. Well this one is a no-brainer for storage space, it scans b/w AND color. It powers directly off the USB port - just plug it in and scan.
   
• Short US power strip and International Plug Adapters
  Make sure you bring a short power strip without surge protection, the 110V surge protection doesn't seem to agree with 240V and makes a real loud crackling sound when plugged in. A power strip allows you to use one plug adapter for each country, while the strip feeds multiple items. We did happen to find a nice 110/240V surge protector. Most modern electronics power supplies are built for both 110/240V, so they don't require a transformer. Double check each one before you buy it, and again before you plug it in. Most power tools and motors are NOT 110/240 compatible.

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